The island of Vis is a little off the beaten track for most visitors to Croatia’s islands as it’s the farthest off the Dalmation coast, but that doesn’t mean it should be overlooked. Vis was strictly out-of-bounds to tourists in the former Yugoslavia as it served as a Naval base, and the island retains a sleepy and slightly undiscovered air, setting the tone for a real island adventure. As the farthest island from the mainland it is often overlooked by those taking the main drag from Split to Dubrovnik, but if you’re planning a trip and not planning on stopping there, I would urge you to reconsider.
Arriving into the bay of Vis town, you’re greeted by the islands’ signature red roofs and cobbles. Jumping onto the dock we piled straight into a taxi to take us the short stretch to Kut, the old town where we completed our journey to Villa Vis on foot – these streets are only made for walking…
Dumping our bags at the B&B we made a beeline for the tourquoise waters, poking our heads around the doors of listed buildings and checking for incoming ships along the way.
The next morning we hired scooters from the rental place in the centre of Kut (there’s only one) for 6 hours – plenty of time to explore an island with two main roads which link Vis and the island’s other main town, Komiza. Racing off along the winding roads like something out of Mario Cart, we twisted and turned our way through vineyards and up and down hills with the most sensational views.
As the paved road turned to dust, we hurtled down hill towards a Bond-like cove - our first stop.
Another dock, another dip.
Continuing on past Milna and Rukevac the road heads inland, passing farms and more terracotta cuteness until it hits the ocean again high above Komiza, looking down onto the tiny island of Besevo.
Many will make the journey to Besevo on a day trip from Hvar to see the Blue Caves and we'd heard a lot about them so we parked up, swapped scooters for speedboats (100 kuna per person from Komiza - around £10) and jetted off to see what all the fuss was about.
A dark cave with water glowing a brilliant blue – that’s what! Entering through a terrifyingly narrow opening the cool air hits you first, before your eyes adjust to the vivid colour of the water – it’s like someone’s thrown a million blue glowsticks into the sea!
The whole illusion is produced by sunshine bouncing off the white sand below the water, through an opening in the cave wall. With the boat engines switched off (the captains punt off the cave walls to guide the vessels through) the only thing you can hear is the gasps of your fellow travellers. It’s dazzling.
Emerging back out into the real world, we headed back to Komiza for lunch before a stroll through the quaint little town.
Cooling off with one last dip in the crisp ocean before jumping back on the bikes and setting off back into the hills for the 10km, wiggly and rather exhilarating journey back to base in Vis.
We had a wedding to prepare for!